May 17, 2011

The Grand Cru of Gastronomy in Burgundy (Part 2)

Hospice de Beaune was built in the 15th century
 to provide care for the sick and dying.
BEAUNE

While Dijon is the capital of Burgundy, its much smaller neighbour Beaune is the wine capital of Burgundy. Beaune is surrounded by some of the world's most famous wine-producing villages.

For this reason, Beaune is often the preferred destination in Burgundy where one can easily explore the beautiful vineyards in the Cote de Beaune region. It also has the added advantage of a veloroute that stretches 22 kilometres from Beaune to Santenay, passing through Pommard, Volnay, Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet.

A view of Pommard from the veloroute
The sheer number of restaurants in Beaune is astonishing and the overall standard is extremely high. Out of the few I have had the good fortune to visit, Le Ciboulette turns out to be my favourite. Ma cuisine and Caveau des Arches are both exceptional in different ways but when it comes down to the experience on that particular evening, my dinner at Le Ciboulette was just a bit more enjoyable - thanks to the warm reception of the staff.

Tartine with pork rillette and olives
It is quite often possible to tell from the moment the bread arrives at your table what kind of food you will likely be served and how good they will be. I have not been too far off with my predictions, so it is reassuring that the pork rillette tartine looked and tasted as it should - rustic and well seasoned.

Terrine of ox-tongue
Terrines are so popular in France that you can pick them up pre-packed in supermarkets for a couple of euros. In restaurants, it is kind of tricky to serve such dishes with a flair.

The two terrines at Le Ciboulette were the best I have had to date. The ox-tongue and ham were beautifully sandwiched between the vegetables and herbs, but most importantly, the gelee made from a consomme celeste made all the difference.  It adds so much depth to the flavour of the cold meat. It was out of this earth!

Jambon de persille
The main courses of fillet of Charolais beef and roasted lapin were both interesting choices as they are less likely to be served or appreciated outside of France. A fellow student from Australia was almost reduced to tears in having to chop up a bunny (with the head on) to make a rabbit stew. Well, it is not for the faint heart, I must add.

Roasted lapin with garden vegetables
In France, beef from Charolais is considered to be the best but I find it does not compare with those from the UK or the US, both in terms of flavour and texture. That said, I was very happy with both dishes which were delicious and executed with competence.

Grilled charolais fillet of beef with garden vegetables
Considering all the meat I have consumed that evening, it is surprising that I was still enthused over my dessert options. I was obviously in a great mood. Indeed, the assortment of mini house desserts was exactly what I wanted. A spoonful each of the different classics - creme brulee, frozen nougatine, chocolate mousse and poached pineapple. The millefeuille of strawberries, light and fruity, was a great way to end a sumptuous meal.

Assorted mini house desserts

Millefeuille of strawberries





No comments:

Post a Comment

Please comment freely but keep it polite by not doing spam.