Modernist designs of the 20th century

Iconic chair designs of the 1950s

Particularly noteworthy is the 20th century furniture collection at the Musee des arts decoratifs which occupies seven floors, each of which is dedicated to a decade of iconic designs.  Again, no effort is spared to provide a panorama of the chair designs of the 1950s by modernist masters - Charles and Ray Eames, Eero Saarinen in the United States, Arne Jacobsen in Denmark and Castiglioni in Italy.  Advances in technology since the post-war period had made possible the mass production of new materials such as plywood, fibreglass, light-weight steel, to create modern furniture in fluid, organic forms that are still being made by their original manufacturers, Knoll and Cassina.  It is amazing how these designs could look so contemporary and blend in well with modern interiors when they were conceived half a century ago.

Lighting and tableware from the 1950s.

Chair designed by Niki de Saint Phalle

Children furniture designs from the 1950s

Moving one floor down, the creations from the 80s and 90s tell quite a different story. They are showcased in sections by top designers including Ron Arad, Tom Dixon from the UK and Philippe Starck from France. Honestly it is hard to visualise some of these pieces outside of the museum setting. No doubt they are high on style but low on comfort for everyday use.  It would not surprise me at all if a few of these pieces are one-offs and have been specially commissioned by the museum just for display.

Papadelle chair, Ron Arad, 1992

Collection Pi, Martin Szekely, 1984

Homage to De Chirico, Pucci de Rossi, 1990

Collection 1979-1992, Philippe Starck

Tracing the grotesques from the Renaissance

Visiting the Musee Des Art Decoratifs in Paris is like taking a course in the history of style from the middle ages to the present day.  The exhibits in the ten period rooms are laid out in such a way that visitors can distinguish the characteristics of a particular period as they appear on different media. The chronology is easy to follow and the objects chosen are exemplary.

Renaissance maiolica vase decorated with grotesque motifs.  Urbino, c.1560.

For example, the grotesque motifs of mystical beasts and caryatids that originated in 16th century Italy were incorporated in the French decorative scheme in the era of Louis XIV. It evolved into the later Rococo style and made its final appearance in French Neoclassical interiors in the 18th century.  

Section of a tapestry featuring the grotesque. Florence, c.1646

The grotesque motifs on a harpsichord cover. Paris, c.1690. 

France's favourite store

Today I found myself exploring for the first time the allure of frozen food.  For a country which has a long tradition of picking the freshest produce straight from the growers during market days, it comes as a surprise that the concept of frozen food would go down well with ordinary French folks.

The fact is the Picard logo is ubiquitous in France and not only is the chain well liked for its innovation, quality and value for money, it has captured the hearts and minds of the French public.  In a recent consumer survey, the brand topped Ikea and Amazon to be France's most popular store. There are 108 branches in Paris alone, and over 780 throughout the country.

At Picard, the kind of frozen food that we are familiar with has evolved into an impressive range of entrees, appetizers, main courses and mouth-watering desserts.

 A tempting range of bite-size petit fours and macarons 

Sorbets and ice creams in stunning presentation

True to the form of French haute cuisine, these could have come from Fauchon

Apparently everything in the store is flash-frozen which means they defrost very quickly and retain most of their nutrients. You can get every kind of fish imaginable and an interesting mix of the staple foods including beef, lamb, poultry, vegetables and fruit, both raw and prepared. The novelty of April, for instance, is the smoked salmon millefeuilles on the right which have been delicately assembled with fromage frais, basil, and vegetables.

Bags of frozen stock in cubes

Coming from a country where wet market is THE place to get fresh ingredients, I have to admit I am more drawn to the concept behind Picard as a brand than the products themselves. It is selling a new kind of lifestyle that appeals to the younger generation. If you want your potato in brunoise, why bother with the fuss by doing it yourself when they come out from a bag perfectly diced?  For me, the tiny boxes of frozen herbs and bags of veal stock and red wine sauce should prove to be  rather handy for the odd meal that I might be preparing one of these days.

A taste of Vietnamese pho

Hailed as the best Vietnamese pho in Paris, I enthusiastically made my way to Pho 14 along Avenue de Choisy to savour the wonderful beef stock that reminds me of a little restaurant called Locomotive back home in Causeway Bay.

This place is no different from many family-run businesses set up by immigrants of Chinese or Pan-Asian descent all over the world. Cheap and cheerful, there was no ambiance or comfort to speak of. But the pho noodle was rather tasty and came with a selection of cooked and raw beef, beef balls, plus the standard bean sprout, raw onion, mint leaves and chilli.  No one can complain about that for 8 euros which is a much welcome price-tag particularly in Paris.

Making it all the way to the 13th arrondissement meant that I was not prepared to go home empty-handed.  I strolled down the main street of 'Chinatown' to explore the Asian restaurants and supermarkets populating this district.  I have to say the restaurants looked like they have been there since the 1970s - dated, tired and mediocre. Walking pass some charred duck in the window did not instil a sense of confidence in the quality of Asian food served in this area.

At the other end of Avenue de Choisy I was pleasantly surprised to find Asian supermarkets, other than Tang Freres, that are well-stocked in fresh produce and Asian provisions. They carry all kinds of mangoes and fruits flown in from China and Thailand. Interestingly, most frozen foodstuff like spring rolls and dumplings are made locally and sold in bulk. For the uninitiated, these are the kinds of Chinese takeaway which the French people will sadly associate with our food culture.  I am hesitant to draw any conclusion on whether this misconception is widespread.  Having said that, however, the general sentiment towards the Asian immigrant population is positive.

The case for the North Africans is quite different unfortunately. The social burden placed upon the French government caused by an influx of immigrants is taking its toll.  More than half of the students in my language class at Alliance Francaise are from the African continent and their tuition fees are mostly paid by their employers.   Imagine those sitting at home, unemployed and surviving on social welfare. "Racism" is such a dirty word that any politically-correct person would try to avoid but there is no denying that the prevailing notion of the 'other' in France is very much alive.

Dazzling chocolate in Pantone colours

How about a 16-3768 red for a piece of chocolate?  Say no more, the inspiration must have been drawn from Pantone - the colour matching system. They look more like eye makeup than they do bonbons! These appealing colour swatch nibbles are so precisely executed AND so minimalist that it could only have come from a Japanese artist! Well, Sudaharu Aoki is not exactly an artist, he is a patissier. But then every patissier of note considers his creations a work of art and Aoki is no exception.

Behind the uniformity in shape and size, the flavours are diverse as they are inventive. I can't help but wonder what 'bamboo' or 'wasabi' chocolate would taste like?  They are not only fun and different, but they also express a modern attitude towards chocolate which is a statement in itself.  Aoki's boutiques are now in Paris and Tokyo and I won't be surprised to see him into New York or Shanghai.

The cook's paradise

My other life training to be an aspiring pastry chef has proven to be more challenging than I would care to admit.  Before the final exam, I tested out six recipes over the weekend only to find that I was going to make Pithivier, an almond cream puff pastry which was about the least technical recipe out of the 50 odd gateaux and tartelettes that we learned.

Pithivier was traditionally eaten on the tenth day after the birth of Jesus

All the effort that went into the scouting for the right kitchen utensils and ingredients for the trial run was quite a task in itself. In Paris, most professional kitchenware shops are centred around Les Halles on rue Montmartre. Shops like Mora, A Simon and E Dehillerin have been around for a long time and they stock every conceivable shape and size of moulds and piping nozzles, plus any number of useful tools that you never knew existed - all still made in France to my disbelief! I am already working out my container's list heading the other direction.

The day that I had enough of pastry making, I went lunching at a neighbourhood bistro serving Basque dishes. Afaria has a small but interesting menu. I ordered from the 'Return Trip' section that suggests the dishes are inspired by the Basque tradition (southern France). The starter, pumpkin soup served with scallop tartare, was a refreshing combination of hot and cold. The grilled fish in a hazelnut crust with braised leeks was flavourful and the cooking point was perfect.

Pumpkin soup with scallop tartare

Grilled fish in a hazelhut crust

Judging from the standard of the food served in the 15th arrondissement, I am rather happy with the fact that decent meals can still be found in this area without the price tag of a more trendy district.

Blending the Middle Age with the Contemporary

On Sunday mornings, to visit a church is like going to a wedding without an invitation.  After having a nice expresso on Rue Mouffetard, I decided to explore a 'religious' site of a different kind - a place of intellectual exchange.  

The College des Bernardins in the 5th arrondissement is an outstanding example of Cistercian architecture, a style most associated with churches and monasteries of the Roman Catholic Cistercian order.  It stressed simplicity and avoided any superfluous ornamentations that were seen to distract from piety.  The austere aesthetics of the Cistercians was expressed in pointed arches and ribbed vaults made entirely out of stone.

The College was constructed in 1248 when universities were popping up all over Europe - Paris, Oxford, Cambridge, Heidelberg, Bologna.  After the French Revolution, it was took over by the Government and had served as a prison, a warehouse and even a fire station. The College was completely renovated and reopened in 2008 as a catholic artistic and cultural centre.

Showing now at the College des Bernardins is a light installation Between You and I by American avant-garde artist Anthony McCall.  His simple projections that emphasised the sculptural qualities of a beam of light was theatrical and lyrical. As the viewer moved around the work in the pitch-black space, the observer would in turn become the observed as he came under the light. 

Modern French cuisine at Le Dauphin

Recently named the 11th best restaurant in the world, Le Chateaubriand in the 11th arrondisement and its chef Inaki Aizpitarte are making the headlines in the culinary world.  Anyone who couldn't wait for weeks to get a table in Le Chateaubriand should try out its sibling Le Dauphin, a wine bar located just next door.

I liked the cool, contemporary feel of Le Dauphin as soon as I stepped inside. The lunch menu of the day promised an interesting combination of ingredients and flavours. Aizpitarte's approach to food was so refreshing compared with all the bistro fare that I have tried in Paris. I am sure some people might even find it a bit odd, but I simply loved it. The starters, in particular, were a daring play of various cooking points that would only work with the freshest ingredients. The end result was a delight.  Now all the more I am convinced I have to put my name down for Le Chateaubriand.

Starters

Raw oyster, mozarella cheese and red cabbage

Bouillon of clams, prawns and celery

Main Course

Veal with chickpeas and radicchio

Pollack with chickpeas and radicchio

 Cheese and Dessert

Tiramisu with passionfruit 

Brie de Meau