Chongqing cuisine right in the heart of Paris!

Gi Gong Bao from Chongqing

There is no authentic Chinese food in Paris - only a curious amalgam of Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese cuisine, so I was told.   Either the experts have been looking in the wrong places, or I got really lucky, I had the pleasure of tasting the famous Chongqing 'chicken hotpot' in an obscure little eatery in the 9th arrondissement. I have to admit that I have never had it before in Hong Kong but my Shanghainese friend vouched for its authenticity. The poussin was tender, flavourful and not overly spicy. Stock was then added to the pot in which vegetables, tofu, vermicelli and sliced beef were cooked at your own pace.

Chinese fondue - the longer the soup is simmered, the spicier it gets.

Regional cuisine from Chongqing has become so popular in Shanghai in recent years that there is an entire street serving dishes of this sort. We had a lovely chat with the Shanghainese chef and his wife from Guangdong who warmly introduced us to this wonderful dish.  I feel blessed that in a round about way, I am exposed a different kind of Chinese cuisine that Hong Kong as a city of culinary delights has yet to embrace.

Prix fixe menu in the 5th

The bistro Les Papilles is the kind of place that you need not worry about what to order - it is a prix fixe with no option menu.  This informal little eatery is situated slightly off the beaten track near the Luxembourg garden. Wine can be picked off the shelf at cellar price plus 7 euros for corkage but there is no option to order wine by the glass which I find a bit restricting for solo diners.

The food was well prepared, rustic, flavourful and came in generous portions.  For a four-course meal that includes a soup, a main course, cheese and dessert, the price of 33 euros is reasonable especially for dinner.  In my opinion, the overall quality had not suffered from the choice of less expensive ingredients.

Celeriac and celery soup with lardon and croutons

Braised beef cheek in red wine sauce and vegetables 

Panna cotta with pineapple sabayon

The fact that there was a room full of English-speaking diners says something about this place.  The no option menu that provides little variation other than to keep the product and labour costs down is also indicative of the kind of practice that is geared towards a tourist clientele.

Regardless, Les Papilles is still a place worth visiting for a wholesome and delicious meal in the 5th arrondissement.