Parisian chef Alain Dutournier

Alain Dutournier in his kitchen whites

The reverence and status accorded to a famous chef in France is no less than a television celebrity. Two-star Michelin chef Alain Dutournier gave a brief but thoughtful speech after serving a splendid 4-course meal to a roomful of starry-eyed culinary students. After three rounds of applause I thought he was that close to receiving a standing ovation!

A cool and contemporary setting

At the Carre des Feuillants which Dutournier owns, his passion for wine and art did not go unnoticed. The exceptional cellar contains more than 3000 bottles, including fine and rare vintages from some of the best wine producers in France. The display of his personal collection of contemporary art in the restaurant provides a modern and sophisticated setting for an innovative dining experience.

Dutournier is renowned for his minimalist, original cuisine based on unexpected textures and complexities. Our first course of salmon prepared four ways was interesting as it explored different approaches and cooking techniques for a single main ingredient. While the most impressive of the lot was the poached salmon cooked sous vide in gelee which was extremely good, both the smoked salmon and the salmon roll were lacklustre for an establishment of this calibre.

Salmon prepared four-ways:
Wild salmon with fresh peas, poached salmon in gelee,
salmon roll and smoked salmon

Then the star of the evening saved the day as the crayfish and scallop ravioli was absolutely amazing. I was a bit surprised to find Japanese enokitake mushrooms in the broth but it was perfect. Any French fungus would have been too overpowering. The clear, perfumed broth had a wonderfully subtle flavour that accentuated the delicate taste of the seafood. C'est magnifique!

Crayfish in a perfumed infusion, ravioli stuffed with scallops

In the world of haute cuisine, you are quite likely these days to be served any number of little portions that make up your tasting menu. At the Carres des Feuillants, it seems that they have adopted a similar concept of sampling.  Most dishes came with three to four elements that had been designed to be enjoyed individually. The third course, for example, comprised small portions of quail, foie gras, truffle and artichoke, as was the dessert which consisted of an assortment of chocolate cake, mousse and fruit compote. In the end, I felt like I have had 12 courses but within half the time.

Quail with a hazelnut crust, panfried foie gras, truffle patties, stuffed artichoke

An element of surprise always does the trick to make our evening more fun and memorable. Well, our surprise was panna cotta drizzled with a hot green tea sauce. A nice touch to prepare us for the dessert heavyweights that followed - baba chocolate, cherry jubilee and creme of verbena.

Punch surprise with green tea sauce

Creme of verbena, cherry jubilee and baba chocolate

An overall satisfying meal with matching wine that accompanied each course. I have to say I cannot ask for more from a school dinner.  That said, my high expectation for a two Michelin star restaurant was not entirely met because I thought the creativity and refinement were lacking at some point.

Sunday brunch at Pause Cafe

With its sunny terrace, Pause Cafe seems like the perfect spot to chill out on a lazy Sunday afternoon. It is situated right on Rue de Charonne, which is one of the nicest streets in Bastille, with plenty of galleries, boutiques and bars. Ever since its appearance in the cult Parisian movie Chacun cherche son chat (Everyone's looking for their cat), the cafe has attracted a fashionable Bobo (Bourgeois Bohemian) crowd. 

Within a five minute's walk from the Marche A'ligre, a neighbourhood joint such as this is exactly what I need to recharge my battery after a morning of food shopping. On Sundays, a brunch is served here on top of the a la carte menu which offers a nice selection of dishes, including their very good l'entrecote and fries. 

Taking the brunch involves only one decision, that is, either tea or coffee. Otherwise, the set menu comes complete with a fresh orange juice, cafe au lait, a range of home-made pastries and breads with marmalade and chocolate spread, a fresh fruit yoghurt and a large plateful of green salad, smoked salmon, fried potato chips and an egg benedict with bacon. Everything was delicious with the pastries and chips being exceptional. The portion was so generous that I actually had to skip dinner that evening. For 19.50 euro, this is quite a bargain, at least in Paris terms.

Alain Ducasse's gastro bistrot

Aux Lyonnaise is one of those gorgeous bistros that is imbued with an ambiance of Parisian eateries of the 1910s. The belle epoque space is decorated with ornate mouldings, mirrors and tiles that evoke a sense of nostalgia for the Golden Age.

The menu is nothing short of all the classic fare from Lyon. Popular dishes such as boudin noir, quenelles, tripes, foie de veau are served a la lyonnaise, authentic and prepared with great attention.

A dip made of creme fraiche and herbs

The line up for the seasonal menu presents some enticing possibilities. It features egg cocotte with girolles and lardons, and pan-fried sweetbread of lamb, which I was more than happy to try out. Gutsy flavours blend well with the style of cooking that brings out the best of the ingredients. The souffle is probably the best I have had in France.

Panfried sweetbread of lamb

Egg cocette with girolles and lardons

Souffle with Kirsch and cherries

The set lunch menu at 28 euros provides limited options for those who do not have the stomach for pig's ears, calf's head or blood sausage. I have no problem eating them especially when I know perfectly well that I will never get them cooked in the same way outside of France. Go for it as far as your cholesterol level permits.

Where do Parisian chefs dine out after work?

I have been told long before I came to Paris how fantastic the food is at this unassuming eatery that is often frequented by the Parisian chefs after they finish work. At this place, it is quite normal to see people coming in at 23:00 for a meal, or to run into some famous chef who happens to be sitting at the next table. The time has finally come to check out this legendary bistro in the 7th arrondissement and see if it actually lives up to its reputation.

L'ami Jean is foodie heaven.  It is a small place and it is always packed. Expect to be elbow to elbow. The positive side, however, is that it gets you talking to your neighbours and eyeing what they have on their plates before you order.  The atmosphere is great and lively and make you feel like a local in a neighbourhood bistro.

riz de veau a la vanille

Chef Stephane Jego's basque cuisine is rustic, gutsy and full of flavour. His signature dishes are the braised veal cheeks and rice pudding a la grandmere. There is a menu degustation plus a 3-course menu du jour which features the best seasonal products. Beware though, the portions are not only huge, you have to be a real carnivore to enjoy their offerings.

The braised beef and foie gras millefeuille that I ordered as a starter is a creative approach to the standard foie gras terrine served in almost every bistro. These two unlikely ingredients are combined in such a way that the tenderness of the meat and creaminess of the foie gras wonderfully complement one another.

Braised veal and foie gras millefeuille

I have read elsewhere about their staff being a tad snooty, but it must have been our lucky night because we were offered a complimentary plate of fresh scallops from Brittany for the less than expedient service. The little scallops are the size of a one euro coin and they have a wonderful flavour and texture. Our dinner guests from Brittany testified to their authenticity and place of origin.

 

On the house is the small scallops from Brittany

No one should miss a 7-hour braised veal cheeks in any restaurant, let alone L'ami Jean.  Veal cheeks have become quite fashionable, like lamb shank before it, as chefs have to be inventive about making secondary cuts as desirable as a chateaubriand or filet mignon.  Here, it is served with small potatoes and cepes mushrooms. The spices had a vaguely asian character and the meat meltingly tender with a nice veal sauce.

Braised veal cheek served with potatoes and cepes mushroom

The desserts that followed was their justifiably famous rice pudding. The pudding is feather-light and not overly sweet. It is served with caramel sauce and a sweet and salty nut topping.  This is simply the best rice pudding I have ever had in my life. It was so delicious that I had to clear the plate even at the risk of suffering from indigestion.  Everything else pales by comparison but I have to say that the roasted apricots and cherries at the next table also looked mouth-watering.

Is L'ami Ami just a hype? For me, I think it is worth its salt for producing solid, creative dishes using quality ingredients and at an affordable price.

Roasted apricots and cherries with passion fruit sorbet

Place de Vosges in the Marais

Built in 1612, Place de Vosges is the oldest residential square in Paris.  It may not look more impressive than the likes of Eaton Square or Belgrave Square in London which are both 19th-century renditions, but its significance lies in the fact that it was the prototype of all the residential squares in European cities that were to come.

Place de Vosges was the model of all the
residential squares in European cities 

There are a few interesting facts about this aristocratic square.  First, it is a true square (140 m x 140 m).  Second, the housefronts were all built with the same design of red brick over vaulted arcades which was a new concept at the time. Third, famous residents of the square counted the 19th-century poet and novelist, Victor Hugo and Cardinal Richelieu, the most powerful statesman in 17th-century France.

Explore the history of Paris at the Musee Carnavalet

French lacquer panels with Chinese motifs

Today, Place de Vosges sits between the 3rd and 4th arrondissements and shares the same district as some of city's hippest addresses for shops, cafes, restaurants and museums. In its immediate neighbourhood is the Musee Carnavalet which is dedicated to the history of the city. Explore a bit of the 18th-century Chinoiserie on display while taking a look at Marcel Proust's bedroom when he was writing his greatest work In Search of Lost Time.

A few steps away is the famous and hidden treasure trove of high fashion, L'Eclaireur. This original concept store, now 30 years old, had existed long before Colette, 10 Corso Como or Dover Street Market came on the scene. It is easy to miss the entrance but once you walked through the narrow alleyway leading to the shop, you will be delighted by its tasteful display of designer fashion alongside carefully edited furniture and artworks.

An installation in the concept store, L'Eclaireur 

The Marais is well known for its myriad sidewalk cafes and bistros serving different kinds of cuisine at reasonable prices. If you are happy with a casual bite, then visit the Jewish quarter in the 4th and enjoy the best falafel or yiddish sandwiches in Paris respectively at Chez Marianne and Sacha Finkelsztajn.

Queue up at Chez Marianne for a takeaway falafel sandwich

Yiddish patisserie has a huge following in Paris

A street view from the Cafe des musees 

At this time of the year, nothing beats having your meal al fresco. I particularly enjoy a simple girolle salad at Cafe des musees and watch the world passes by.  This bustling corner bistro is one of my favourite lunch places in the 3rd.  The food is consistently good and excellent value for money, and more importantly, it stays open on Sunday. And if you are lucky, you might even get a table without reservation.

The refreshing and tasty girolle salad

Best steak frites in Paris?

How do you want it? What drink? What dessert? That's all the decisions you will need to make when you eat at Le relais de l'entrecote. This famous steakhouse in the 8th arrondissement serves only one thing - steak and fries, and for one price - 24.50 euros. That's pretty good value when you get a crisp, green salad and two helpings of the tender strips of grilled steak and chips, plus an abundance of the secret house sauce that makes this dish such a crowd-pleaser.

For over twenty years, their fixed formula and no-reservation policy seems to have served Le relais de l'entrecote well. A long line is formed, noon and evening, outside the door. What makes better advertising than real people queuing 365 days to get in? Their success has been phenomenal and they are now also in Geneva.

Coming back to the steak, it is brought sliced and drenched with a herb-butter sauce, along with the very good fries. The remaining portion is set to rest above votive candles on a nearby station, and then served as soon as your first helping is cleared. The service runs like clockwork - efficient but mechanical. I would happily pop back there if I am craving for a good piece of steak and nothing else. Otherwise, I would prefer something less predictable and formulaic.

Dishes inspired by the southwest

Tucked away in the 14th arrondissement, Le Regalade's indisputably good menu at 32 euros is a hit with the locals.  On the night of my visit, the place was packed by 8 pm on a mid-week - a most encouraging sign.

Pate de campagne

Before we had the chance to place our order, the homemade pate de campagne, bread and pickles arrived at our table and it was just the kind of appetizer that you have come to expect in a traditional bistro - the little extra that makes your dinner experience more fun and memorable.

Although the menu is not extensive, the choices cover a good range of meat, fish and poultry, plus an impressive wine selection. If you fancy some foie gras or pigeon, there is a supplement of 15 euro and there are quite a few of these add-ons.

As a starter, the foie gra royale with asparagus veloute was very well executed.  The royale was smooth and adds an interesting taste and texture to the otherwise run-of-the-mill veloute.

Foie gras royale with asparagus veloute

Saint Jacques with vinigrette, parmesan shavings and croutons

The Saint Jacques that I ordered was excellent. Served in their shells, they were only partially cooked. The addition of parmesan cheese and croutons gave this common ingredient a modern twist. Between the two main courses, the poached fish was much less successful than the grilled duck breast which was done to perfection.

Poached fish with vegetables

Magret de canard with potatoes and green salad

Souffle with grand marnier

I finished off with the grand marnier souffle which looked amazing but was a little less light and airy than I had expected. For its high quality ingredients and excellent value for money, Le Regalade is the perfect place for a convivial meal with friends.

Time for al-fresco dining!

I have been told that it is very unusual for the temperature to reach the high 20s and stay there for weeks on end at this time of the year in Paris. Why waste the sunshine by staying indoors? I skipped breakfast altogether and headed straight to Le Comptoir du Relais in Saint Germain for a quick lunch along the sidewalk. I arrived at noon and by a quarter past, the entire place was full and a queue started to form.  A very promising sign...

I was greeted immediately by some wonderfully warm and crusty sourdough bread which was another good sign. This bistro is well known for its no reservation policy for lunch and dinner after 9pm.  The obligatory prix-fixe menu is missing but no one ever complains because the a la carte menu offers such an excellent variety of classic French dishes that you can't wait to return.

Fois Gra with prune confit and toast

Lobster bisque topped with creme fraiche

The foie gras with toast and prune confit that I ordered was delicious, but the lobster bisque was outstanding.  The flavour was exactly how it should be coming from a mixture of fish and lobster, plus the signature pastis that brought this dish to life.  As I was people watching while devouring the last bit of bread, I noticed something unusual about the building standing in front of me.  It was actually a curtain wall painted with a facade.  Well, the French would not allow their appetite to be spoiled by some silly scaffolding, would they?

A taste of Vietnamese pho

Hailed as the best Vietnamese pho in Paris, I enthusiastically made my way to Pho 14 along Avenue de Choisy to savour the wonderful beef stock that reminds me of a little restaurant called Locomotive back home in Causeway Bay.

This place is no different from many family-run businesses set up by immigrants of Chinese or Pan-Asian descent all over the world. Cheap and cheerful, there was no ambiance or comfort to speak of. But the pho noodle was rather tasty and came with a selection of cooked and raw beef, beef balls, plus the standard bean sprout, raw onion, mint leaves and chilli.  No one can complain about that for 8 euros which is a much welcome price-tag particularly in Paris.

Making it all the way to the 13th arrondissement meant that I was not prepared to go home empty-handed.  I strolled down the main street of 'Chinatown' to explore the Asian restaurants and supermarkets populating this district.  I have to say the restaurants looked like they have been there since the 1970s - dated, tired and mediocre. Walking pass some charred duck in the window did not instil a sense of confidence in the quality of Asian food served in this area.

At the other end of Avenue de Choisy I was pleasantly surprised to find Asian supermarkets, other than Tang Freres, that are well-stocked in fresh produce and Asian provisions. They carry all kinds of mangoes and fruits flown in from China and Thailand. Interestingly, most frozen foodstuff like spring rolls and dumplings are made locally and sold in bulk. For the uninitiated, these are the kinds of Chinese takeaway which the French people will sadly associate with our food culture.  I am hesitant to draw any conclusion on whether this misconception is widespread.  Having said that, however, the general sentiment towards the Asian immigrant population is positive.

The case for the North Africans is quite different unfortunately. The social burden placed upon the French government caused by an influx of immigrants is taking its toll.  More than half of the students in my language class at Alliance Francaise are from the African continent and their tuition fees are mostly paid by their employers.   Imagine those sitting at home, unemployed and surviving on social welfare. "Racism" is such a dirty word that any politically-correct person would try to avoid but there is no denying that the prevailing notion of the 'other' in France is very much alive.

The cook's paradise

My other life training to be an aspiring pastry chef has proven to be more challenging than I would care to admit.  Before the final exam, I tested out six recipes over the weekend only to find that I was going to make Pithivier, an almond cream puff pastry which was about the least technical recipe out of the 50 odd gateaux and tartelettes that we learned.

Pithivier was traditionally eaten on the tenth day after the birth of Jesus

All the effort that went into the scouting for the right kitchen utensils and ingredients for the trial run was quite a task in itself. In Paris, most professional kitchenware shops are centred around Les Halles on rue Montmartre. Shops like Mora, A Simon and E Dehillerin have been around for a long time and they stock every conceivable shape and size of moulds and piping nozzles, plus any number of useful tools that you never knew existed - all still made in France to my disbelief! I am already working out my container's list heading the other direction.

The day that I had enough of pastry making, I went lunching at a neighbourhood bistro serving Basque dishes. Afaria has a small but interesting menu. I ordered from the 'Return Trip' section that suggests the dishes are inspired by the Basque tradition (southern France). The starter, pumpkin soup served with scallop tartare, was a refreshing combination of hot and cold. The grilled fish in a hazelnut crust with braised leeks was flavourful and the cooking point was perfect.

Pumpkin soup with scallop tartare

Grilled fish in a hazelhut crust

Judging from the standard of the food served in the 15th arrondissement, I am rather happy with the fact that decent meals can still be found in this area without the price tag of a more trendy district.