Place de Vosges in the Marais

Built in 1612, Place de Vosges is the oldest residential square in Paris.  It may not look more impressive than the likes of Eaton Square or Belgrave Square in London which are both 19th-century renditions, but its significance lies in the fact that it was the prototype of all the residential squares in European cities that were to come.

Place de Vosges was the model of all the
residential squares in European cities 

There are a few interesting facts about this aristocratic square.  First, it is a true square (140 m x 140 m).  Second, the housefronts were all built with the same design of red brick over vaulted arcades which was a new concept at the time. Third, famous residents of the square counted the 19th-century poet and novelist, Victor Hugo and Cardinal Richelieu, the most powerful statesman in 17th-century France.

Explore the history of Paris at the Musee Carnavalet

French lacquer panels with Chinese motifs

Today, Place de Vosges sits between the 3rd and 4th arrondissements and shares the same district as some of city's hippest addresses for shops, cafes, restaurants and museums. In its immediate neighbourhood is the Musee Carnavalet which is dedicated to the history of the city. Explore a bit of the 18th-century Chinoiserie on display while taking a look at Marcel Proust's bedroom when he was writing his greatest work In Search of Lost Time.

A few steps away is the famous and hidden treasure trove of high fashion, L'Eclaireur. This original concept store, now 30 years old, had existed long before Colette, 10 Corso Como or Dover Street Market came on the scene. It is easy to miss the entrance but once you walked through the narrow alleyway leading to the shop, you will be delighted by its tasteful display of designer fashion alongside carefully edited furniture and artworks.

An installation in the concept store, L'Eclaireur 

The Marais is well known for its myriad sidewalk cafes and bistros serving different kinds of cuisine at reasonable prices. If you are happy with a casual bite, then visit the Jewish quarter in the 4th and enjoy the best falafel or yiddish sandwiches in Paris respectively at Chez Marianne and Sacha Finkelsztajn.

Queue up at Chez Marianne for a takeaway falafel sandwich

Yiddish patisserie has a huge following in Paris

A street view from the Cafe des musees 

At this time of the year, nothing beats having your meal al fresco. I particularly enjoy a simple girolle salad at Cafe des musees and watch the world passes by.  This bustling corner bistro is one of my favourite lunch places in the 3rd.  The food is consistently good and excellent value for money, and more importantly, it stays open on Sunday. And if you are lucky, you might even get a table without reservation.

The refreshing and tasty girolle salad