July 9, 2011

A little piece of Russia in Paris

There is something exquisite and Russian about Pouchkine that stands out from the rest. I stumbled upon this small corner pastry shop in the Printemps store on Boulevard Haussmann and was immediately awestruck by what were on display. The stunning creations are not only technical tours de force in pastry making, they exude an air of opulence and splendour of the past. The dome-shaped chocolate gateau, for example, recalls the characteristic cupola of the St Basil Cathedral in Moscow. Funny enough, there are even breads that have been stamped with the Russian coat of arms.



The coat of arms of Russia
Of course, the name Pouchkine should ring a bell. Who else can it be other than the great 18th century Russian writer, Alexandar Pushkin, that this patissiere is named after? Cafe Pouchkine has been a significant success in Moscow since its launch in 1999 as a restaurant and tea salon. It is now in Paris under the helm of pastry chef Emmanuel Ryon, winner of the world pastry championship.
Ryon's repertoire exhibits great originality, techniques and creative flair. The desserts are very tempting, superbly presented and no doubt, they also come with a price tag to match. 

(left) Charlotte vanille fraise caramel,
(middle) Bende Feijoa, Paris Moscou, Rose chocolate noir
(right) Fleurs Elle, Gateau citron meringue


The Russian-styled Fraisier (centre)

Whether the pastry tastes as good as it looks in a boutique is secondary to the visual impact it creates at the point of sale. Impeccable presentation plus a suggestion of deliciousness is what it takes for Pouchkine to win over the French public.

Who knows if Pouchkine will make Shanghai its next destination considering the link between China and Russia dating back to the 17th century? I think this could be a winning formula.


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