July 18, 2011

Shop like a local at Marche D'Aligre

There are literally a dozen of food markets in every arrondissement in Paris that it is hard to miss them. These temporary markets operate mostly twice a week in the morning and offer fresh produce from the farms, or more likely from one of the wholesalers. Depending on where you live, you might even have two or three such markets serving your neighbourhood.


Spending a morning at a market can be great way to practise my French as well as to stock up a weekly supply of fresh fruits and vegetables. Not to mention that the Paris market experience is always a colourful and stimulating one. I find the most popular and centrally located ones tend to be frequented by tourists, hence their high prices. So I am keen to explore other areas that might give me better value for money.

Cherries sell for 3 euros per kilo
Marche D'Aligre, in the 12th arrondissement, is no doubt a place for the locals. It is by far one of the most affordable markets in Paris. Oranges, the size of a grapefruit, can be had for 50 cents each and girolle mushrooms are priced at 4.95 euro for 500 grams. Fruit and vegetable stalls dominate the open-air market in Place d'Aligre, while the meat, poultry, fish, cheese and charcuterie are sold indoor at the adjacent Marche Beauvau.  At the other end of the square, there is a small flea market that sells bric-a-brac and the sort of antiques that could only have come from a car-boot sale. I was actually surprised to see there was a demand for old photographs at one euro a piece.

The covered market at Marche d'Aligre

Products nicely displayed inside the market


Skate wings are wonderful if you know how to cook them

Whilst in this vicinity, Sabah would make a nice stop to pick up some oriental products. Located near rue d'Aligre, this famous grocer carries all the spices and herbs necessary for cooking Asian, African, Indian, North African and Middle-Eastern dishes - effectively catering to all the ethnic minorities in Paris. Their large selection of herbs, nuts and dried fruits or even rice and oils are considerably less expensive than what they would be sold at supermarkets. No wonder the place is always packed.

Sabah specialises in oriental spices and herbs

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