Where do Parisian chefs dine out after work?

I have been told long before I came to Paris how fantastic the food is at this unassuming eatery that is often frequented by the Parisian chefs after they finish work. At this place, it is quite normal to see people coming in at 23:00 for a meal, or to run into some famous chef who happens to be sitting at the next table. The time has finally come to check out this legendary bistro in the 7th arrondissement and see if it actually lives up to its reputation.

L'ami Jean is foodie heaven.  It is a small place and it is always packed. Expect to be elbow to elbow. The positive side, however, is that it gets you talking to your neighbours and eyeing what they have on their plates before you order.  The atmosphere is great and lively and make you feel like a local in a neighbourhood bistro.

riz de veau a la vanille

Chef Stephane Jego's basque cuisine is rustic, gutsy and full of flavour. His signature dishes are the braised veal cheeks and rice pudding a la grandmere. There is a menu degustation plus a 3-course menu du jour which features the best seasonal products. Beware though, the portions are not only huge, you have to be a real carnivore to enjoy their offerings.

The braised beef and foie gras millefeuille that I ordered as a starter is a creative approach to the standard foie gras terrine served in almost every bistro. These two unlikely ingredients are combined in such a way that the tenderness of the meat and creaminess of the foie gras wonderfully complement one another.

Braised veal and foie gras millefeuille

I have read elsewhere about their staff being a tad snooty, but it must have been our lucky night because we were offered a complimentary plate of fresh scallops from Brittany for the less than expedient service. The little scallops are the size of a one euro coin and they have a wonderful flavour and texture. Our dinner guests from Brittany testified to their authenticity and place of origin.

 

On the house is the small scallops from Brittany

No one should miss a 7-hour braised veal cheeks in any restaurant, let alone L'ami Jean.  Veal cheeks have become quite fashionable, like lamb shank before it, as chefs have to be inventive about making secondary cuts as desirable as a chateaubriand or filet mignon.  Here, it is served with small potatoes and cepes mushrooms. The spices had a vaguely asian character and the meat meltingly tender with a nice veal sauce.

Braised veal cheek served with potatoes and cepes mushroom

The desserts that followed was their justifiably famous rice pudding. The pudding is feather-light and not overly sweet. It is served with caramel sauce and a sweet and salty nut topping.  This is simply the best rice pudding I have ever had in my life. It was so delicious that I had to clear the plate even at the risk of suffering from indigestion.  Everything else pales by comparison but I have to say that the roasted apricots and cherries at the next table also looked mouth-watering.

Is L'ami Ami just a hype? For me, I think it is worth its salt for producing solid, creative dishes using quality ingredients and at an affordable price.

Roasted apricots and cherries with passion fruit sorbet