June 27, 2011

Les Pecheurs in Nice

Located on the port of Nice, Les Pecheurs is one of the many seafood restaurants along quai de Docks where all the yachts are moored.  To my mind, this is exactly the kind of tourist trap that often serves mediocre food at exorbitant prices.  Then I found out soon enough that my suspicion was completely unfound as the chef's creative flair and passion for fine ingredients shone through every dish that we ordered.

Carpaccio of scallops, ginger ice cream
The menu offers a range of such classic dishes as bouillabaisse and lobster thermidor that are famous in the region but the focus here is more on the blending of exotic flavours of the Mediterranean with the freshest seafood possible.
The carpaccio of scallops, for example, not only comes in an incredible size, measuring roughly 8 cm in diameter, the meat is wonderfully sweet, tender and flavourful.  It was so good that it made me wonder if it really was scallops!

Lobster ravioli in langoustine broth
Snow crab served with mango

A real winner on the starters menu is the lobster ravioli.  Served in a langoustine broth, the lobster has been cooked to perfection. The concoction is light but it tastes as intense as a lobster bisque.  The dressed crab served with mango is another inventive treatment of a classic ingredient.

Bouillabaisse
Bouillabaisse, originating in Marseille, is one of my favourite dishes. But unfortunately in Nice, it is simply not as authentic as it should be due to the lack of a good variety of fish in the recipe. A classic bouillabaisse should consist of an assortment of local seafood including monkfish, red mullet, snapper, scorpion fish and sometimes eel which are served separately from the fish soup.  Despite this drawback, the soup is worth a try for its rich taste.

Sea bass with rosemary sauce
The unlikely but interesting combination of rosemary and fish, as opposed to grilled meat, demonstrates the chef's willingness to experiment. The outcome is a delight. The sea bass that has been cooked in foil to retain its moisture is infused with an aromatic sauce that complements the delicate flavour of the meat.

Compared to the entrees and plats which are all exceptional, the desserts - chocolate fondant and strawberry soup - just seem a little less exciting although I must add that they are also well executed.

Strawberry soup served with verbana ice cream
Black n white chocolate cake with pear sorbet, caramel sauce
Obviously there are more to the French Riviera than just the glorious sun and the sandy beaches. The abundance of fresh seafood in the Cote d'azur makes it the perfect place to enjoy all the gourmet food that this region has to offer.  


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